Wednesday, October 20, 2010

And then there was one.

I arrived to Malawi with two fellow volunteers. We actually met in the Johannesburg Airport boarding our flight to Malawi. Mike O. was coming from Albania where he had served in the Peace Corps and then worked for several years with World Vision International. Richard was coming from a freshly completed Peace Corps service in Botswana, where he was working as a district AIDS coordinator. We spent two and a half weeks in and around Lilongwe for an orientation then were sworn in as Peace Corps Response volunteers by the US ambassador. Richard and I headed south to our sites in Blantyre and Zomba. Mike O. headed to the west for his site in Mchinji.

Backing up a bit in the story, I was recruited by the Peace Corps to serve as a response volunteer in Malawi, a job I was happy to take because I wanted work experience in Africa on health systems strengthening projects. Peace Corps was recruiting for 10 response volunteers that they planned to spread out over Malawi in an attempt to support the response to the HIV/AIDS epidemic. They only got three. I chalk it up to a limited pool of qualified candidates and well let’s say life. If you have finished the Peace Corps and have a graduate degree, you are no spring chicken. What you are is in that middle ground between running around and settling down. Mike O. and Richard were already married and a few years older than me. It was clear that we were all looking for something.

Well, a week into our service, Richard flew back to the States for his home leave. Having come straight from Botswana, the Peace Corps gave him a month to go back and catch up with his family and friends before returning to work. After a little delay, we heard that he was not coming back. So then there were two.

Mike O. and I got along great. He is a light-hearted guy that is quick with a joke (that’s what she said, Mike) but who also has a serious hardworking side too. We were the two response volunteers in country, Mchinji Mike and Zomba Mike. We hung out a few times when we were both in Lilongwe for work or a wedding, and we sent text messages, emails and called back and forth a few times.

Unfortunately Mike’s counterpart was a dud and it was difficult for him to get anything moving. The first time around in Peace Corps this would be considered a very normal occurrence and a process of growth for the volunteer as they experienced how things can come to a halt despite our best efforts. As former Peace Corps volunteers, Mike had experienced this already and was not up for a repeat performance. I can’t blame him. As Peace Corps Response volunteers, we expect tangible work assignments and the resources to accomplish them. I got lucky, as in Zomba I found a motivated counterpart and quickly got funding. Mike made the best of his situation for a while, but then made the decision to go home, a decision that I fully support, though I am saddened to see him go.

And then there was one. As the sole survivor of Peace Corps Response Malawi, I have to ask myself what it is that I am doing here. I laugh to think about the old Army commercial’s slogan, An Army of One. In development work, nothing seems more ridiculous than a sole person—especially a foreigner—trying to move seemingly inert government employees and policies and improve the lives of so many. Development is a collaborative process beset with trials and errors. It is a learning process that thrives on communication and good will. And it is a process that needs to reach a critical mass or it will simply stop. As one volunteer, I have to face the fact that it is unlikely that my efforts alone will have a lasting impact on the health and well-being of Malawians.

I need not only to finish my work here in Zomba; I have also to ensure that it is scaled up across the other cities in Malawi. I have to make the case that the urban population’s growth is bringing with it new health and social challenges, and if the government of Malawi continues to neglect the health of its urban residents by supporting a poorly implemented decentralization of the Ministry of Health that favors rural service delivery, urban residents will suffer. My counterpart sees this and is working to change the current structure of health within the government. Peace Corps Malawi is also supporting my efforts to establish an urban M&E system for health, so that the cities can have a better understanding of the health of their residents. And of course we are lucky as there are only four major cities in Malawi, and there is a potential for placing new response volunteers in the other cities in an attempt to roll out the M&E system countrywide.

Will it work? I don’t know, but I am certain that I cannot do it alone. Peace Corps Malawi and the Government of Malawi will need to make substantial investments over the coming years to see this project to fruition. I only hope that I can set them rolling in the right direction.

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Map of Malawi